Our last day in Puerto Rico. We ate breakfast at the Casa Cubuy again with our Dutch friends, and then headed right over to Old San Juan where Da House was waiting. The trip was fairly fast and before we knew it, we were walking through the crowded colonial streets to our hotel “Da House” in the historic area of Old San Juan. We were a little early so we headed out for some lunch with the recommendations from the gentleman at the front desk of Da House in mind, and he agreed to watch our bags until our room was ready.
Afterwards, we continued up the hill toward the northern coast of the city. We wanted to walk along the wall over to the Castillo San Francisco. On our way we began to notice that the more we walked up the hill, the more “character” the area had. It became very local, with not a single tourist in sight. Graffiti splashed across the walls, alcoholics sat along the musky alley staring as we paraded past, obviously outsiders, and little bars sat brooding on every corner. Some of the intoxicated street side sunbathers were eating a corndog-like snack to help wash down the alcohol.
“What are you eating?” Edmundo asked them in his obviously Mexican Spanish. “Ahrrrr, ezz un szlrrrub sis ndz.”
Huh? “Where can you get them?” Edmundo continued.
“Oh, right here… go in, go in, have one! They’re delizzcciousss!” Edmundo looked over to me and asked rather hesitantly, “Do you want to give them a try?”
“Sure,” I eagerly chirped.
We walked into the bar directly across from the group of men, and found that the little dive was a family run joint, with the boisterous daughter doing most of the serving and customer relations. From the moment she said her warm hello we could feel our bodies relaxing into our barstools, knowing that we were welcome.
They kindly asked where we were from, and when Edmundo told them that he was from Mexico but had moved to Florida to get married, the girl was ecstatic, “Are you on your honeymoon!!???” “Yes.” “HEEEEEeeeeeeey!!! ALRIIIGHT!!! You came to Puerto Rico for your honeymoon!!” She quickly decided that we were destined to conceive twins while on the island, and would therefore have to come back to the island to give birth to our twins so they could be Puerto Ricans. The girl teased us and told us of some romantic spots we could go to conceive our twins. HA!
She also thought it was hilarious but charming that Edmundo spoke just like the actors on the Mexican soap operas they watch each day on the television above the bar. Our “alcapurrias” were delicious. The mother who prepared the food from scratch was kind enough to share her recipe with us and explain all her cooking secrets to Edmundo. The bar was so warm, with such a delightful energy, I can’t imagine having passed it up. Every person who walked into the place was so welcoming and friendly, and it really seemed like a bar “where everybody knows your name.” The fact that this hole in the wall was about the size of a walk in closet only made it feel all the more intimate. It was such a privelage to be accepted into this local dive and to experience the warmth and energy that overflowed into the streets outside. It was an experience I will never forget. Finally, though, we moved on to explore the Castillo San Francisco. It was very much like the Castillo de San Marcos in Saint Augustine. From its cannons facing out at the water’s edge down to the dungeons below, everything seemed eerily familiar. The history of this fort was especially interesting to me. Apparently the U.S. actually actively used the fort during World War II to watch for ships and submarines headed for the U.S. mainland.
After touring the fort for some time, we thought it was high time to hit of the café recommended by the hotel clerk whose description included that “The coffee will make you fly!” Nestled on the edge of the plaza on our way back to the hotel, we found this coffee paradise, Caficultura, “the best coffee in Puerto Rico.” Though I must say their coconut cake was also quite good. Back at the hotel we officially checked into our room, a romantic, fresh getaway perched atop a bustling city.
The hotel is really cool and artsy. Every room showcases a different local artist. From head to toe, it feels like the trendiest of high style New York apartments. Our favorite was the cool chair at the bottom of the stair...(rhymie-roo!!!)
It even has a club downstairs that plays with the names of New York and Puerto Rico... Nuyorico.
The hotel is really cool and artsy. Every room showcases a different local artist. From head to toe, it feels like the trendiest of high style New York apartments. Our favorite was the cool chair at the bottom of the stair...(rhymie-roo!!!)
As cool as it was (both in temperature and ambiance), we didn’t stay long (despite all the pleas for us to make twins). The day was only halfway gone, and we still had much to do. From there we strolled along the Avenida de la princesa from the south end all along the western coast until we came to the other historic fort, El Morro. We stopped for an acerola Italian ice along the way, before walking up the long grassy path to the entrance.
<From Wikipedia: acerola (ass-air-ola)
The fruit is edible and widely consumed in the species' native area, and is cultivated elsewhere for its high vitamin C content. There is 1677.6 mg of vitamin C in 100 g of fruit.
In the 1950s, a manufacturer of baby food decided that apple juice was milder for infants than orange juice. The company claimed that a drop of acerola juice in an 8 oz. can of apple juice provided the amount of vitamin C of an equal amount of orange juice. A detailed nutrition facts analysis shows Acerola juice does contain 32 times the amount of vitamin C in orange juice (over 3000% as much), supporting the claim.
A comparative analysis of antioxidant potency among a variety of frozen juice pulps was carried out, and included the acerola fruit. Among the eleven fruits' pulps tested, acerola was the highest scoring domestic fruit, meaning it had the most antioxidant potency, with a TEAC (Trolox equivalent antioxidant activity) score of 53.2 mmol g. >
El Morro was so large and so expansive you could spend all day getting lost in its dark hallways and ancient triangular staircases.
But alas, we got kicked out just before sundown. As we walked down the long path between fields of rolling grassland with ocean on either side, we looked up to see our Dutch friends from Casa Cubuy flying kites in the field. Well it is a small world after all.
Finally, exhausted we headed back to the hotel. My back needed the break. But as we wove our way through the cobblestone streets amid beautiful Spanish architecture, we just couldn’t help but tuck into a few souveneir shops. (Though, as usual, they weren’t much more than overpriced imports from China with Puerto Rico stamped on the front). We did however find a Coquí backpack! It even made the Coquí sound when you squeezed the foot, but I managed to resist the temptation to purchase. Still very cute though.
After relaxing at the hotel and showering off the stickiness of 95° in the Carribean, we got ready for Nuyorico, the trendy salsa club just downstairs from Da House. On Thursday nights they have a fairly famed (at least locally) live salsa band. We grabbed a couple drinks and settled in for the show. Skirts swirled and high heels twirled. By 11:30pm the night seemed in full swing, but as each new dance couple hit the floor, it seemed better than the last, or maybe that was just the mojito talking.
Whatever it was, live salsa music in a magical city that never skips a beat, I can’t imagine a more perfect note to end our honeymoon adventure on. Here’s to the next chapter and many more adventures to come.
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