Oh what a terrible back-ache! But oh what a lovely way to make your back ache! This morning we went down for coffee at 8 o’clock and I sat reading Daisy Miller while Edmundo sifted through Carribean tourist guides. At 9:00 breakfast was served with fresh pineapple and mango, excellent fresh bread with butter and jam, and hard-boiled eggs. It seemed a very European breakfast though my opinion may have been skewed by the fact that we sat with our newly made Dutch friends (from the restaurant last night).
Shortly after breakfast, we ventured off into the tropical rainforest on an hour long hike that would take us through two rivers, including one waterfall, and the most unbelievable jungle atmosphere. Of course knowing Edmundo and I, we were very slow going because we had to stop at every turn to take a dozen pictures.
Also knowing Edmundo and I we had to venture off the path several times for a “closer look” or to search for “another path.”
It was good fun, but by the time we got back, my back was shot. I hopped into the shower, and promptly plopped down on the mattress to sift through the myriad of photos. When I finished those I went on to read more Daisy Miller while Edmundo took his afternoon nap. When Edgie awoke it was nearly 3:00 and we hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast. With no nearby prospects for lunch, we decided to drive into town, Naguabo.
Naguabo certainly didn’t have much to offer. It seemed a fairly run-down city. They had Burger King, Pizza, Taco Bell imitators, Chinese food… but as far as we could tell, they didn’t have any Puerto Rican food. We circled around the square and drove down the main boulevard before finally turning down a residential side street to make our way back to the square where we’d started. But as we came to the end of the block we happened upon a hand written sign declaring “Pinchos”.
“Well let’s go there!” We both decidedly agreed. In the chef’s fenced in front yard we found two other Puerto Rican patrons sitting on lawn chairs with their pinchos in hand.
“Provecho,” I naively exclaimed. But upon sitting in the plastic lawn chair and looking around, I began to examine the scene a little more vigilantly. This is what I saw: one boarded up abandoned house across the street covered in gang tags and graffiti, one pair of shoes dangling from the power lines overhead, dozens of shanty houses lining the barrio, two Puerto Rican patrons filled with tattoos, scars, and hardened, unfriendly faces. Hmmm… whelp, I guess it’s too late to turn back now.
I was quickly distracted when the bountiful chef rounded the corner. “HHghhello!” He cheerfully rang out, “Let me get another chair for you, sir.” He called in to his jovial wife, “HHghhoney, we’re going to need some more pinchos.” They were very kind, and after the other young men left, the chef sat down with us at the plastic table in his front yard and told us many stories of Puerto Rico, his own life, and the neighborhood. His wife joined in from the kitchen several times and they were both so kind and friendly I couldn’t have imagined dining anywhere else. We were really so lucky to stumble upon such a quaint little neighborhood barbeque.
As for the pinchos, let me just say, they were the best food on the island so far. They are basically shish kebabs, ours being barbequed chicken. The wooden sticks were basically just filled with marinated chicken breast, thrown on a grill, and smothered in honey barbecue sauce, topped off with a hunk of fresh Italian bread. $1.50 for each pincho, $1 for home-made grapefruit-ade or tamarindo water. We each had two pinchos and were satisfied. DElicious!
What a great day, and tomorrow we’re heading into Old San Juan. We have a lot to look forward to.
To get to the Day 15 entry you have to click on "Older Posts" below. Thanks!
Para el Día 15, tienes que hacer click abajo donde dice "Older Posts". Gracias!
To get to the Day 15 entry you have to click on "Older Posts" below. Thanks!
Para el Día 15, tienes que hacer click abajo donde dice "Older Posts". Gracias!
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